In the middle of the Tang Dynasty, clothing became loose, sleeves were longer and wider, tops became strapless, and silk unlined tops became the standard, as plump women were favored. This style of clothing is often referred to as “high breast group” (Qi Xiong group). This shift in the ideal female body type is associated with Emperor Xuanzong’s favorite wife, Yang Guifei.
The Qixiong Ruqun of the Tang Dynasty was characterized by two – or three-piece suits, of which there was a flowing outer garment called the “big sleeve shirt” or big sleeve overcoat, the “ru” coat and the “qun”, which usually appeared in the form of a wrap skirt.
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